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Installation Instructions
| T62 Turbo custom kit - here for install page | |
| Blitz Dual Turbo Timer |
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(From an email from George D.)
I'm not familiar with Viper alarm and HKS timer, but I rewired my Blitz dual timer this weekend at it works now like champ with stock alarm. What I had ordered as "Blitz special 97-98 Supra harness" was some really messed up cable. It appeared to work, but caused problems with alarm/door, etc and caused RPM surge during turning the key off. I had to pull the pins and rewire manually as follows:
Blitz -> Toyota
| Blue(ACC) -> ACC | |
| Green(IGN) -> IGN2 | |
| Red(POWER) -> AM2 |
Unlike some other timers, Blitz doesn't hook into more pins, like ST and IGN1.
Tell me how you want ideal Timer to work and that's how it works. Alarm and doorlock work as before, absolutely independant from the timer operation. All features like automatic door unlock, auto headlight off, courtesy light, etc are preserved.
Moral: check the cable wiring. Even if it appears to work, it could be messed up.
Thanks,
-gia
98 TT + Timer
P.S. The cable came wired (incorrectly) as follows:
| Blue(ACC) -> IGN2 | |
| Green(IGN) -> IGN1 | |
| Red(POWER) -> AM1 |
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(From an email from Lance W. w/ 97-98 added by me)
| Pin4 IG1 Black and yellow wire to Blue wire from TT. | |
| Pin7 AM1 White to Red wire from TT | |
| Pin3 IG2 Black with brown to Green wire on TT |
Small three wire harness
| Pin3 PKB brown and white on Cruise control computer to violet wire | |
| Pin20 SPD pink wire on cruise control computer to orange wire |
This is how my car is wired and it works perfectly. I also hooked up a 60
cc syringe to the pressure sensor and found that it reads up to 2.66 kg/cm,
and down to -72 cm. The automatic feature set the cool down time to 5 minutes
after I spiked it to 2.66! The plumbing for the pressure is exactly the same
as a boost gauge, I used an oil pressure line installation kit for the
1/8" polypropylene tubing, and ran it through the top of the accelerator
cable feedthrough on the firewall. If you are industrious and clever, you can
see how I did this (it's not hard, but a bit tedious), and it makes a very
short (less than 3 feet) and straight run. The cruise control computer
connections are physically just above the ignition switch if you are lying on
your back and looking up at the bottom of the wiring harness connection to the
ignition switch. Using the cruise control connections puts all your
electrical connections in one place, so you don't have a wire running down the
center console to the brake switch and another across the dash to the computer
for the speed sensor, it is a very neat and clean install.
Notes on the exact wiring for the main power:
1993.5 - 1996?
| Connector Pin # | Signal | GReddy Harness (HKS TT-4) | Toyota Colors ('93-'96) |
| 2 | AM2 | Red | White/Red |
| 3 | IG2 | Green | Black/Orange |
| 4 | IG1 | Blue | Black/Yellow |
| 5 | ACC | Yellow | Pink/Blue |
| 7 | AM1 | Red | White |
| 8 | ST1 | White | Black/White |
1997-1998
| Connector I19 Pin # | Signal | GReddy Harness (HKS TT-7) | Toyota Colors ('97-'98) |
| 2 | AM1 | White | |
| 3 | ACC | Green | |
| 4 | IG1 | Back/Yellow | |
| 6 | IG2 | Black/White | |
| 7 | AM2 | White/Red | |
| 8 | ST1 | Black/Red |
The integration relay uses IG1 via the 10A gauge fuse to determine whether
or not the ignition in on. The theft deterrent ECU looks at ACC and IG1.
To implement the change, lift the secondary locking device on the connector,
then using a very small screwdriver, lift the plastic locking tab inside the
connector and slide the wire out of the connector. Remove the Blue wire and
the yellow wire and then install the blue wire in the yellow wire's position
(pin 5) and the yellow wire in the blue wire's position (pin 4). This will
retain the auto off feature of the headlights, permit the OEM theft deterrent
to work, and keep the sound system on while the TT is counting down.
last modified on Saturday, August 12, 2006
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